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I decided to post this in the right section and request a mod sticky this that way we can stop with the turbo setups and questions and just have everything in one postAs we all know the 4b11 n/a is an open deck block. The evo has a slight webbing in the deck making it a semi closed block. The major down fall of a open decked block is it can and will with enough force cause the cylinder wall to expand and mushroom at the top of the deck. Also known issue is floating. While the 4b11t has a semi closed deck and is alittle better this is still not an ideal setup. Looking at the past mistsubishi motors such as the famous 4g63 this was a fully closed deck block. The end results were a solid block able to take on the task of severe boost and power. While every motor has its flaws these can be corrected. The 4b11 n/a for moderate power would require sleeves which can be exspensive or partial block filing which in it's own can cause other issues such as over heating. While both fixes have come long ways there is just no way of knowing what the block will handle until somebody pushes it to the limits and splits the block.For those of you that want to go turbo right now and not wait another second RRM offers their one off turbo kit. While costly it appears to be a decent kit, I'll leave it at that since I'm not in the business of cutting throats. I will say this for $4300 usd i could build a fully built block, a turbo setup and still have gas money left over. I just read a post regarding a turbo and a gentleman made the comment " that until you build it yourself, you'll never understand how it works ". I would like to tip my hat off to you sir that is so freaking correct. I have compiled a list of parts that are readily avaliable decently priced and affordable that could, if you spend the time build a awesome turbo kit. While new parts are nice i highly suggest cutting cost where you can and buying genetly pre-owned stuff. Bov's, injectors, manifold, inter-coolers are all fine examples. I have already heard the comments such as "buy and evo", "Swap an evo engine",etc,etc. While for the rich folk that maybe fine, but for the working stiffs umm not so much. You can boost a manual transmission 2.0 safely to around 9-10 psi. Rule of thumb is no more then half of the engines crank horsepower to be safe. There is one exception in this case CVT's you may get away with only 5-6 psi. Now i know what your thinking " man why even bother". The answer is simple for $2500 name one other part that will give you 50-70hp? N2o thats great but ever fill a bottle before? Supercharger?..lol good luck. NA bolt ons will get you so far, But at what cost?The answer is up to you in the end. Nobody ever said we had to this is just an option for those that want it. Below is a small list of parts. I have listed several turbo, piggybacks, gauges,etc. Look threw find your budget and build what you can afford. Most of us don't have $3000 laying around take the summer buy piece by piece and in the off season put it on. Any questions feel free to reply and i will answer them.2.0 and 2.4 can use these partsTURBO MANIFOLDS & O2 HOUSINGSRalliart turbo exhaust manifold: mitsubishi factory part $411Ralliart o2 housing mitsubishi factory part $ 180INTERCOOLER PIPIINGagp intercooler piping evo x. $350 stock bov flangeINTAKESapexi power intake for evo x $160INTERCOOLERebay intercooler ONLY $150DOWNPIPESdownpipe will need to be custom $175+INJECTORSInjectors high impendence only $150-$300 stock evo's are fineFUEL PUMPSfuel pump stock evo x $150 ebayBLOW OFF VALVESbov hks ssqv $150TURBO'Stdo4hl 13t turbo $300+tdo4l wrx turbo $300+td05 16g big or small $500+td06 20g $500+HOSESbraided stainless hose varies in price $???FITTINGSAN fitting varies in price $???PIGGY BACKS & PROGRAMMERSRRM programmable piggy back $420apexi safcII $400 new used much cheaperevoscan/ tactrix programming software $190evo x ecu $250 usedWIDEBANDSwideband o2 sensor: aem uego $222wideband o2 sensor: zeitronix $279GAUGESgauges: boost, exhaust gas temp minimue: $50-$200BOOST CONTROLLERSboost controller manual preferred $25-100SPARK PLUGSspark plug: 2 heat ranges colder then stock: ngk preferred $2 each.While i made every attempt to make this perfect prices may be a few dollars off. Again try to buy used stuff to save money. Parts that are for the evo x or ralliart will fit both 2.0 and 2.4 engines.
ok bro my parts are growing.so far got my hands on:a ralliart manifoldralliart turboX injectorsi'm waiting to hear back about the intercooler but i might just pick one up from mishimoto for 200.
http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-universal-intercooler-large.htmlyep they make intercoolers. but i found one for 200 bucks.
well the rods and crank in the motor are already forged. Weaker then the evo x yes but on par with the ralliart yes. The open deck design is new to mitsu but not new to engines. The block weakness can fixed. Sleeves are the easiest way. But regardless the stock should hold 300hp without issue. Hondas use the same open deck design and people throw turbos on them everyday without issue. I would not worry about the crank and rods until the block is sleeved anyway. Pistons can be had from any piston company for around $400-500 usd. Also piston can be installed simply by removing the head and pushing them up from the bottom of the block, this should not take more then a good solid weekend. Not to mention you can pick up a stock block for less then $500usd and a evo short block for $1600.
lol, i was not suggesting that but it is a cheaper route. I did that to my 4g64 when i didn't have the cash. it's running great. For the record i always recommend having a machine shop build the bottom ends of motors. That way if a bearing or crank walks the shop can be held for the damage. I would suggest people would do things the smart way and that is buying a block and building it one piece at a time until its complete, you'll learn more and have the best parts you can afford. The website i use for almost all of my used parts is car-part.com they have 4b11's for as cheap as $500 thats a complete motor. Then you could have the head worked and install evo cams without the down time!!!!
I could be wrong, but aren't evo cams completely different? Thought I read that somewhere.
batteries release hydrogen gas which is one of the lightest gas's known to man. thats what they make blimps out of. It goes ka-boom really easy if not vented well.
Here is my opinion the first comment of this post. I sat down and added all of the cost assosiated with buying evo ralliart and evo x parts. I took into an account the cheapest parts and the most expensive parts. Here is what I came up with and you would not believe it.If you buy all of those parts at the cheapest price available today. You will probably come up with number like $3000 (give or take). Now you got to remember that the price does not include shipping and handling, which can cost on all of those parts up to 300-400 (since you will be buying them individually). Now you looking at $3300-3400.I also did the same thing and used average or higher prices you can pay for parts and I came up with this....Roughly $3800-3900 not to include shipping and handling. Which again might run at about $300-400 when all the parts are ordered individually.So you are not really saving whole alot of money. Yes it is a good practice putting all the parts together on your own. It will teach you hot turbo works and such. And I will take into consideration that most people (myself included), do not have the cash to just buy $4200 turbo kit. How ever after doing the math and seeing how long it will take to hunt down the parts at cheaper price, you will spend same amount of time saving to buy the RRM kit.In mean time, I am in the same possition as all of you. I am debating weather I should buy the kit or piece it my self.
"dbomp",Thank you for advising me of the possibilities. I have indeed found some used parts.This question is for you "dbomp" and "dadsgts"....If possible can you provide the list of parts need for a good turbo set-up? I've been doing alot of research but every one just throws most generic parts lists out there. Although I have good knowledge of cars and have done all the work on my lancer myself (like coilover kit(megan), hid kit, brakes, etc...However when it comes to building the turbo, I am still new to it and learning. And its hard to find out what works with lancers since they are new and all the books and mags out there are for older cars or evos.So my question is, if possible, could you please give me some ideas and I am sure once I start, I will flow with it.Thanks men.
Just a correction: they don't use hydrogen in blimps. They use the inert gas helium. Last time they used hydrogen was the Hindenburg.
ok so i have the following parts im just wondering what i need left.intercoolerintercooler pipingdownpipeand 02 houseing all off of stock evo xso do i just need the turbo manifold and the turbo now pretty much and a way to tune it?
Well you would also need water/oil lines with proper fittings (I mean AN to metric sizes), intake with MAF sensor cut out and a dump tube (for resurculation back to the intake). You will also need a boost guage to make sure you dont over boost and vacuum lines. And of course all of this things will be determined by what turbo you decide to go with. If you go with Evo X turbo, you will need different hoses and fittings than if you were to go with RA turbo. Just make sure you have a vision of wich turbo you will be mounting, so you will not have to small or to big of fittings and hoses.
Forced Induction