Topic: rear brake problem

[jjlein]

So my car just hit 70,000 miles and seems to be going to sh*t. About a month ago my rear right brake caliper locked up on me and totally smoked the rotor and pads. I replaced the pads all around the car and put new rear rotors on. All was good untill today when the back left locked up!!!! Any ideas what this could be? Maybe bad brake fluid? Im a desiel mechanic so im not an idiot, but these little foreign cars are a different beast.

[Matchstick]

Um, improper bleeding of the brakes, if that was done... Thus air in the line causing caliper failure.

If you bleed the brakes there is a pattern you have to follow, and you also have to bleed the clutch as well, because the brakes and clutch are a shared hydraulic system.

I just hit 100k, and have replaced my pads twice, and I didn't need to bleed at all, cause the caliper piston tool will squeeze the piston in without needing to open the bleed valve.

[somedood451]

My driver's rear e-brake adjusted itself way up afaik at some point.  I'd make sure your rear wheels turn well with your e-brake off.  I don't know if someone was pulling too hard on the e-brake or what, it was used.  I check them anytime I have the car up in the rear.

[Matchstick]

ebrake would effect both rear brakes at the same time not just one.

[somedood451]

In my case it was the ratcheting mechanism similar to the auto-adjusters old drum brakes used that over-tightened.  I had to back it off before the wheel would turn properly again.  This happened on only one side.

[jjlein]

I think it was bad fluid. I have deployed 2 times and the car sat both times for a year. I changed the fluid last night and it seemed to have moisture in it. It wasnt too dirty but new fluid seemed to do the trick.

[jjlein]

ok well i take that back. its locking up again. since it got so hot the first time, im sure the piston is fried. Im going to just change that calliper and see how it goes.

[jjlein]

Problem solved. It was another bad caliper. Im not sure if eveyone should keep an eye on this because my car sat for a while with nobody driving it, but its something to keep in mind.

[powight]

I had a similar problem in a previous vehicle where the piston just got so rusted that it stuck closed and was dragging.  I had to heat it up with a torch just to get it to come off the rotor.  At least it is fixed now.

[jjlein]

Ok..... rear right is locking up again. WTF!!!! I dont get it. Fluid is good, slide pins are lubed, brakes dont need to be blead. I wonder if there is something wrong with the master cylinder or brake booster? I bought lifetime warranty callipers so its not like i have to pay for new ones but they dont stock them so i have to wait. Its getting really annoying!

[Stevenn2004]

i have an 08 too and my rear left caliper seized too. i was curious why there was a burning smell combined with a huge amount of heat coming from my brake. ending up bringing to the dealer. rusted up piston was the cause. this was like 6months ago. since then its been fine. i thought i was the only one to have this problem. i drive my car everyday so i didn't understand how it could rust. its parked in the garage too... oh well. needed to change the brake pads anyway.

[somedood451]

Really, check the e-brake auto-adjuster on the drivers side.  Block & jack it up, release the e-brake and spin the rear wheel.  If you hear/feel significant dragging, back it off a click or three.  Back it off till it's not dragging, then take it to the dealer if you are unsure of the adjustment.  It's not like you need an e-brake to drive places, just parking.  This really made a huge difference with my car.  The rear disc rotors can warp from more than just the apparent brake calipers.  If the e-brakes are dragging, they can cause the rotor to warp too.